Ramp it Up!
Friday, May 8th, 2009Oh, Springtime! You’re all about wowing us with flowers, showing us those bursts of color we’ve been craving since Fall. And I love every little crocus and pansy and dogwood blossom that I see. But I really get stoked when I finally get my hands on something fresh and local that I can eat.
That’s where ramps come in.
Ramps live somewhere between a leek, garlic, and heaven. Unlike the other pungent bulbs, the greens of the ramps are soft and demand to be cooked up and gobbled down. So when I arrived at the Union Square Farmer\’s Market at 6:15 on Wednesday, I was offering up a silent, seemingly useless, prayer that there might be ramps in my future. And though half of the booths had shut down and the other half were in the process of folding up tables and shoving them into the back on big trucks, I came upon a man who had a few bunches of ramps left to sell me. I almost hugged him.
There seems to be a fancy fan club for ramps. Yoshi Yamada’s article, Ravenous for Ramps from last April’s Gourmet Magazine is one indicator. The incredible linguine with ramps that I had at Marlow and Sons, the lauded Williamsburg restaurant, is another.
I spirited them home, and following the basic recipe from Mr. Yamada’s recipe, I separated the greens from the bulbs and treated them to my lazy style of “julienning”…
Then tossed the whites in the pan with hot hot hot oil…
Cooked them until they were sweet and tender, and then added some cooked pasta and breadcrumbs…
Then added the greens, tossing them around until they wilted right proper…
And served them up with some freshly grated pecorino romano cheese…
My husband and I both agreed that they were something really special. Nutty and garlicky, but fresh and clean.
So though I may not see them again until next year, I’d like to say Thanks, Ramps. You’re the perfect spring fling.






